Льняная одежда: давайте разберемся Опции

[John Hockwood]

Друзья!
Помогите разобраться с вопросом о льняной верхней одежде в конце 15 века. Хочется чтобы она была, и вроде бы должна быть, но чо говорят источники?

Вот шоссы из Альпирсбаха, 1490-1529. Коричневая льняная саржа





Ну и та самая жилетка из Берна


Но она видимо носилась под жак (?)

Подскажите, что нам говорят письменные источники об использовании льна для верхней одежды?

Сообщение отредактировал Griet - 25.4.2011, 21:23

[Griet]

В книге по текстилю и одежде иесть упоминание льняных шосс.

[quote]The excavation of the tomb of a Mer-ovingian princess, possibly Queen Arnegunde, who was buried c. 565-70 in the cathedral of St Denis, France, revealed that she was laid out wearing linen hose secured below both knees with leather cross-gartering garnished with silver buckles and strap ends (France-Lanord & Fleury 1962, 345, 354, fig 3; Werner 1964, 212-14, figs 11, 12).[/quote]


В книгах по итальянской моде и текстилю есть масса отсылок на одежду из льна и хлопка.

Из книги Жаклин Херальд(Dress in Renaissance Italy, 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, printed by Humanities Press: NJ, 1981. ):

[quote]GUARNELLO (M/F). Both a kind of linen or cotton textile, and the feminine garment constructed from such a fabric. The guarnello probably has the same significance as a rascia. It is a simple, reasonably loose-fitting dress, similar to the cotta, but sometimes worn withuot sleeves. Guarnello, being cotton or linen, may be registered in inventories with the rest of the biancheria --chemises (camicie), towels and kerchiefs. The guarnello, rascia or saia is the standard form of dress for angels. It is worn by children as a simple, washable garment, and possibly also by pregnant women. There aer also examples of guarnelli listed under items of male clothing[/quote]

Из книги The Italian cotton industry in the later Middle Ages, 1100-1600 (Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui)

[quote]Popular fabrics for the doublet were silk taffeta (ztndado) and sturdy cottons such as the boсcaramo, boccasino, and valesio. Levi Pisetzky, Storia del costume, 1, pp. 293 ff; 11, pp. 32-7; 111, pp. 131-4;[/quote]

[quote]Cotton jackets and quilted doublets, both new and used, are listed in tariffs of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.
Noto, Liber Datii, p. зо: 'Zacchi de fustaneo ... Zuponi de fustaneo.'[/b:8865ad649d] Ciavarini, Statuli Anconilani, 1, p. 176: [b]'giupones vcteres.' Cf. Uzzano, Delia deeima, p. 80.[/quote]

[quote]In Florence the guild of rigattieri and linaioli made doublets and quilted coverlets.Sartini, Statuli, p. 331.[/quote]

[quote]In Milan the materials used by the doublet makers were subject to inspection by the officials of the cotton guild. ASCM Statuta Artis Fustaneorum, fo. IOV. [/quote]

[quoteIn Barcelona doublet and quilt makers also worked under the general auspices of the cotton and tailoring guilds. Carrere, Barcelone, pp. 372, 374, note 4. [/quote]

[quote]Documents of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries record the existence of cotton doublet makers (pourointiers) in Paris. Fagniez, Etudes, pp. 373-375 'i:LI' Documents relatifs a d l'histoire de l'industrie et du commerce en France (Paris, 1898-1900), n, pp. 378-9.[/quote]

[quote]In a list of cotton goods appearing in a fifteenth-century Milanese tariff, duties arc levied on ready-made cotton cotes. Noto, Liber Dalit, p. 20; 'Zornee de fustaneo.' The giornea and the gonna (simple tunic or robe) for both men and women were frequently made of boccasino or bombasina. The latter term also appears as a designation for these garments. Emilio Pandiani, 'Vita privata genovese nel Rinascimento,' Altli della Societa Ligure di Storia Patria, XLVII (1915),pp. 272-8,
Levi Pisetzky, Storia del costume, II, p. 419.[/quote]

Это лишь точечные цитатки из этих книг:

The Italian cotton industry in the later Middle Ages, 1100-1600 (Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui)

At the Centre of the Old World: Trade and Manufacturing in Venice and the Venetian Mainland, 1400-1800(Paola Lanaro)

Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing(Carole Collier Frick)


Сообщение отредактировал Griet - 7.8.2012, 19:01